Week 23: Palace Singing & Hiking

As with every new country, we began our week with a City Orientation. We met our City Managers and learned everything about our month - from experiences to common cultural practices, and a few housekeeping things.

The following day, we had our official welcome experience, which was klapa singing and coffee. Klapa singing is a traditional form of a cappella singing that originates from the Dalmatian coastal region of Croatia. The word "klapa" refers to a group of male or female singers who perform in tight harmonies, often with call-and-response patterns. Klapa singing is characterized by its beautiful melodies and emotional depth, with themes often centered around love, loss, and nostalgia. The music is typically performed in small, intimate settings, such as taverns or private gatherings, and has been passed down through generations as a way to preserve Croatian cultural heritage. Today, klapa singing has gained popularity and recognition beyond its homeland, with festivals and competitions held around the world to showcase this unique musical tradition that is a UNESCO-protected form of singing. Given the fact that we are visiting during the off-season, it was an incredibly special experience to hear the performance in the vestibule of the Diocletian palace.

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After the performance, we headed to Lvxor coffee for coffee, which holds a significant place in Croatian culture and is an essential part of daily life. Croatians are known for their love of coffee and the ritual that surrounds it. Coffee is typically enjoyed throughout the day, with many Croatians taking a break from work or socializing with friends over a cup of coffee. The most common coffee order is "kava s mlijekom" (coffee with milk). The coffee is typically served in a small cup or glass, with a shot of espresso and steamed milk on the side. Sugar is often added to taste.

Later in the week, we had our language and culture class. I always love attending these because I get to learn some key phrases and important foods or experiences to try. The class in Croatia was very comprehensive, and I walked away learning about many things, specifically Vegeta (a cherished spice mix), Croatians are obsessed with football (soccer), love Tesla (Nicola), and specialize in wine. There was also a helpful slide about the language, which I have been able to use for the entire month. I also attempted to walk up Marjan Hill, but there was a huge lightning and thunder storm. I got caught in the rain and enjoyed the entire palace to myself. It was so special! I spent my evenings all week working, as I had meetings with clients, and many deadlines to meet. Our workspace, The Works, is just a 5-minute walk from our apartment and has many seating options for long-haul days.

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On Saturday, we hiked Mount Mosor via Vickov Stup. Beginning early in the morning, we drove to the trailhead which is located in a small village called Sitno Gornje, about 30 minutes away from Split. The hike to Vickov Stup goes through the dense forest, passing streams and waterfalls, and eventually opens up to reveal stunning views of the surrounding mountains and coastline. On the way there, we were able to stop at the Umberto Girometta Mountain house. It’s pretty quiet in the morning but when we came back in the afternoon, there were quite a lot of people – locals and tourists – having drinks or resting at the outdoor picnic tables. As we approached Vickov Stup, the trail became steeper, requiring some scrambling over rocks and boulders. Despite faraway appearances, Mosor is all sharp peaks and ragged edges, there is very little (if any) smoothness to this mountain. Finally, after reaching the summit, we were rewarded with panoramic views of Split and the Adriatic Sea. After enjoying the view and taking some photos, we had some snacks and relaxed for a bit before heading back down the mountain. The descent was a lot quicker, but we still needed to take care on the rocky terrain.

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The highlight of the day was our homemade meal - for which we were encouraged to "fast" for, despite our challenging day hiking. Once back at the trailhead, we drove to a small village to meet the Bartulovic Family. Our dinner was vegetables, salads, meats, homemade red wine and bread, and a giant bowl of donuts (peka) for desert. But, the feature of the evening is their signature local dish, soparnik,

Soparnik is a traditional Croatian dish that originated in the Dalmatia region. It is a savory pie made with a filling of Swiss chard, garlic, and olive oil, and it is typically baked in a wood-fired oven. The process of making Soparnik is labor-intensive and time-consuming process, but the end result is a delicious and satisfying dish. The dough is divided into two parts and rolled out into thin, round sheets. The filling (chard) is then spread on one sheet, leaving a small margin around the edge. The second sheet of dough is placed on top of the filling, and the edges are sealed by crimping them together. The Soparnik is then baked by putting ashes and coal on top of it. Once the Soparnik is cooked, it is cut into pieces, a slathered in raw garlic and olive oil. It was truly an incredible and one-of-a-kind experience to witness this specialty being made.

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